Centella asiatica is a plant used for centuries in traditional Asian medicine and, in Korean cosmetics, it is the most widespread soothing ingredient: on a label it appears as Centella Asiatica Extract, and products containing meaningful amounts of it are often marked "cica".
Cica, CICA, centella: the same thing?
Yes. "Cica" is the commercial shorthand for centella asiatica, and on Korean packaging it works as a category marker: it signals that the product is meant for skin that goes red easily.
On a label you may find the whole extract (Centella Asiatica Extract) or its isolated components: madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid. When all four appear, some manufacturers call it a "TECA" or "Centella Asiatica Complex".
Which skin types it suits
Centella is traditionally used in products for sensitive, reactive or easily reddened skin — which is why it also shows up so often in routines for acne-prone skin, where the skin is frequently already stressed by other treatments.
It is generally well tolerated and can be used daily, morning and night.
Which step
Centella turns up in almost every format, and the step depends on that:
- Cleanser — VT Cica Mild Foam, €16.90
- Toner pads — VT Cica Mild Toner Pad, 60 pads at €17.90
- Ampoule — Cica Centella Calming Ampoule by Esfolio, €9.90: the least demanding way to try the ingredient
- Serum and cream — the Dearboo pair, serum and cream, which combine centella with chemical exfoliants
- Sunscreen — Clear SPF50+ PA++++ by Planet Skin, in serum form
One caution about the two Dearboo products: they also contain chemical exfoliants, so they are not plain soothing products. Introduce them gradually, as you would any product with acids.
Centella and scars: what can and cannot be said
Centella has a long history of traditional use and decades of scientific literature behind it. A cosmetic, however, works on the appearance of skin: it does not cure, and no product in this category can promise to make a scar disappear.
If you have a skin condition that worries you — significant acne, dermatitis, lesions that don't resolve — the right place is a dermatologist, not a shelf.
Where to start
If your skin reddens easily, the Esfolio ampoule at €9.90 is the cheapest way to find out whether the ingredient agrees with you, before building a routine on it. The rest of the products meant for this skin type are in sensitive skin.